Modify at your own risk!
The kit is designed to do two main things:
1. Replace the stock pivot point rivet with removable hardware. This allows for the upper cuff to be removed and reattached for subsequent modifications.
2. Relocate the lower buckle to the boot pivot point. This reduces pressure on the lower foot and holds the heel in the heel cup of the boot.
As the amount of desired flex depends greatly on the rider's height/weight and style of riding, our main goal with this kit is to provide the hardware needed to make the boots easy to modify. We have of course experimented with a number of additional mods, so we also want to provide the knowledge and inspiration to take it to the next level if you so desire.
(4) Stainless Steel Axles
(4) Stainless Steel Bushings
(4) Delrin Bushings
(4) 6-Lobe Stainless Steel Screws
(4) Coated Steel Butt Connectors
(2) Thick Delrin Washers
(2) Thin Delrin Washers
(2) Stainless Steel Washers
(2) Cables (To be cut to length)
(1) T15 Bit
3/8” Drill Bit
1/2” Drill Bit
6mm (or 15/64” or 1/4") Drill Bit
Wire Cutting & Crimping Tool (TIP: Look for tool in the electrical section of a hardware store)
Adjustable (aka Channel Lock) Pliers
Boot Tear Down
1. Drill Out Pivot Point Rivets
- Remove boot liner and patch covering the rivets on the inside of the boot.
Use a 3/8” drill bit to drill out the pivot point rivet on both sides of each boot. CAUTION: Try not to let the rivet spin when drilling it out. Spinning will create a lot of heat quickly and can melt the boot!
The upper cuff should now be free from the lower shell.
2. Drill Out Lower Buckle Rivets
- Use a 3/8” drill bit to drill out the rivets holding the lower buckle to the boot. CAUTION: Try not to let the rivet spin when drilling it out. Spinning will create a lot of heat quickly and can melt the boot!
Push leftover rivet out from lower boot. A punch or nail works well for this.
3. Cut Plastic Shoulder And Drill Out Pivot Hole
Use a razor blade or knife to cut off the plastic shoulder sticking up at the pivot hole on the lower shell.
Use 3/8” drill bit to drill out the pivot hole in lower shell.
1. Drill Out Attachment Hole On Buckles
- Use 6mm (or equivalent) drill bit to drill out the attachment hole on the buckle with the cable. CAUTION: Be extremely careful when drilling out this hole!
Remove Existing Cable and Cut New Cable To Length
Pinch cable cover and pull back for cable removal.
Cut old cable and remove.
Cut new cable provided to length according to boot size:
12" (23/24), 12.5" (25/26), 13" (27/28), 14" (29/30)
Thread New Cable and Crimp Cable End
Thread cable through buckle attachment point and crimp cable end. CAUTION: Don’t over crimp! We’ve had the best success lightly crimping the center first, then crimping the outer edge slightly more to prevent the cable from coming out of the crimp.
Pull cable sleeve back over end.
Stage Buckles for Assembly
- Using parts provided, stage buckles for assembly.
Thicker black washer goes with the outside buckle (buckle with the cable).
Thinner black washer and stainless steel washer go with the inside buckle (buckle that receives cable loop).
IMPORTANT: Apply removable Loctite to screws!
Upper Cuff Rebuild
Drill Out Upper Cuff Pivot Holes and Install Bushings
- Use 1/2" drill bit to drill out the upper cuff pivot holes.
Insert the black plastic axle bushings into the newly drilled out holes.
Insert bushings from the inside of the cuff.
Upper Cuff and Buckle Attachment
Install Metal Axles and Bushings and Mate Upper Cuff to Lower Shell
Press the metal axles into the lower shell pivot points.
Slide the metal axle bushings over the axles now protruding from the lower shell pivot points.
With the black bushings installed in the upper cuff pivot holes, mate upper cuff to lower shell.
Attach Buckles to Secure Upper Cuff to Lower Shell
- Attach both buckles using T15 bit to secure the upper cuff to the lower shell.