BEFORE YOU BEGIN - PLEASE NOTE!
With proper setup and care, your Phantom bindings will operate seamlessly in the mountains. But as with any new system, we recommend taking the time to understand how it works to avoid frustration at a time when you should otherwise be fully focused on your line. We recommend going on conservative tours the first few times out to make sure the system is properly set up. If things are going to loosen up, it usually happens soon after setup. When tightening and loosening screws, be careful to prevent cross-threading, and always use a non-permanent locking compound (ie blue Locktite, included in the tool kit) on the threads of all screws that mount to the board. This will reduce the potential for unwanted loosening while touring/riding. Finally, Phantom bindings are engineered for a very tight tolerance fit. What this means is that you should be aware of ice/snow build up on your top sheet and your inside edges, and always carry the Phantom scraper (included in the tool kit) with you in your jacket pocket. Before putting your board together, cleaning your board of ice and snow will help ensure everything goes together as easily as it did when you first set it up at home.
Check/adjust the fit of the bindings to your boots.
It is your responsibility to ensure the fit is secure and the bails won't prematurely release.
We have tried to build your bindings so they are a perfect fit out of the box, using the boot and size information you provided with your order. That said, you may need to make further adjustments to dial in the best possible fit. All tools required for adjustments are included in the tool kit.
Properly fitted binding on the TLT6.
FIGURE 1 is how the binding should look when properly fitted for your boot. The all-metal bail is the heel bail. The bail with the black lever is the toe bail. To "strap in," simply kick the heel of your boot back so that the all-metal bail catches securely on top of the heel lug of your boot, then bring the toe bail up and over the front of the boot, and press down to secure the lever on the toe welt.
IMPORTANT! It is possible to "false lock" the heel bail! With a false lock, your boot will come out of your bindings as soon as you start to turn. Always make sure the heel bail is secured correctly - on top of the heel lug of your boot - as shown in FIGURE 1.
TIP: It is normal for the toe lever to sit up off the top part of the boot a little bit, especially with the Arc'teryx Proclines. You just want to make sure the lever snaps into place, feels secure and your toe doesn't move around inside the toe bail too much (a very small amount of side to side play is normal). The screw on the underside of the toe lever can be adjusted to tweak the actual seating tolerance of the lever on the toe welt. With the Proclines, which have a smaller than normal toe welt, you will need to use the longer nylon screws included in the tool kit. This will ensure that the lever seats itself securely right where the toe welt meets the boot as in FIGURE 2.
FIGURE 2 also shows the canting that comes with all Phantom bindings. Each binding is canted at 3.5 degrees inward. This is one way to tell which is your front foot binding and which is your back foot binding. The bindings aren't marked front/back out of the box, but you may choose to mark them for quick reference.
If you need to adjust:
There are 2 adjustments that can be done depending on how much play you're experiencing in the bails.
Figure 3 is a bottom view of the binding assembly. These screws can be loosened and the corresponding bail block adjusted from the outer to inner or inner to outer positions on the binding plate. The difference between these positions is 5mm. So, moving the toe block inward will make the fit 5mm smaller/tighter. Moving both the toe and heel blocks inward will make the fit 10mm smaller/tighter.
TIP: Two different sizes of screws are used to secure each bail block. The longer 2 screws are used on the side where the cant (angled plastic piece) is thicker. The shorter 2 screws are used on the side where the cant in thinner.
TIP: It's typically the heel bail position that will determine if the boot is centered on the binding and therefore over the board. Once the bindings are mounted on the board, always check to make sure your boot is centered to prevent unwanted toe/heel drag.
IMPORTANT! Never over tighten these screws! The stainless heads can strip out if too much torque is applied. As long as the bail blocks are flat against the cants and the cants are flat against the binding plates, the screws are snug enough. The cants actually impart a slight load on the screws that helps lock them in place.
IMPORTANT! When tightening these screws, start with one and just barely get it threaded. Then do the second, the third and the fourth in the same way. Now you can start tightening them down, each a little bit at a time to help minimize the chance of cross-threading. While tightening, it's a good idea to keep checking that the bail is seated properly in the bail block. Note that it may be necessary to squeeze the bail while the screws are being tightened so as not to pinch the bail lip/stop in between the block and the cant/binding plate. A little bit of anti-seize may be applied to these screws to make the process easier and is recommended for bindings that will be adjusted several times such as those used for rentals or demos.
Figure 4 is a side view of the binding assembly. By removing the same screws as in FIGURE 3 you can also adjust the position of the bails themselves. The bails can be moved from the outer to inner or inner to outer positions in the bail blocks. The difference between these positions is 10mm. So, moving the toe bail to the inner position will make the fit 10mm smaller/tighter. Moving both the toe and heel bails inward will make the fit 2omm smaller/tighter.
TIP: Fine and coarse adjustments can be done simultaneously. The tightest position is achieved by moving both the bails and the bail blocks inward. The widest position is achieved by moving both the bails and the bail blocks outward. Figures 5-8 show the various positions for a progressive 5mm adjustment.
Mount the cleats and set your angles.
Disassemble the cleat assembly as it has been sent to you. If you keep track of which screws go where, it'll save you some time later on.
Mount the cleat plates first.
The first step is to mount the cleat plates (baseplates only) to your board. This is how you set your stance width and setback. Position them on your board in pairs, nested together as shown in FIGURE 9. Move them forward/backward and together/apart to set your preferred stance, then tighten each plate with the 2 shorter screws directly into the factory inserts in your board.
IMPORTANT! When mounting the plates, make sure that the two halves of the splitboard are perfectly aligned with all hooks engaged and the tip and tail clips latched. Our Hercules Hooks and Voile hooks lock together and usually ensure the two board halves are in perfect alignment. Karakoram clips allow for slight variations in board half positions and will require more careful alignment.
TIP: Use Loctite on these screws to prevent unwanted loosening! Also, when tightening the screws, hold the plates together and slowly tighten a little bit at a time, making sure the plates don't move and twist out of contact/alignment.
Once all cleat plate screws are tightened, rotate the binding onto the plates as shown in FIGURE 10 checking that it rotates freely. There should be a little bit of room between the plates and the binding. If there is interference, loosen the screws and readjust as necessary, making sure that the plates are properly nested together and do not shift when tightening the screws.
TIP: If you have trouble with the cleat plates shifting on you, it is recommended that you tighten the screws (with Loctite), leave it for ~12 hours, then tighten down once again.
Then set your angles by mounting the cleats themselves.
The cleats can be set from 0 to +/-30 degrees (+/-30 is the max). Adjusting the position of the cleats using the various threaded holes in the cleat plates is how you will make your coarse angle adjustment. The 7 threaded holes offer 3 positive degree positions and 3 negative degree positions. Each position provides an increment of +/-10 degrees, further illustrated below. The metal "washer" part, which is notched in 5 degree increments (the middle notch representing neutral or 0 degrees), is how you will set your final angle.
FIGURE 11 shows the screws in the center position. These are the holes to use for stance angles between 0 and +/-10 degrees (goofy or regular). FIGURE 12 shows which holes to use for a goofy footed rider for stance angles between +10 and +20 degrees. For -10 to -20 (or +10 to +20 for a regular footed rider), you would use the same holes to the left of the center position. FIGURE 13 shows which holes to use for a goofy footed rider for stance angles between +20 and +30 degrees. For -20 to -30 (or +20 to +30 for a regular footed rider), you would use the same holes to the left of the center position.
Once you know how to achieve your desired angles, assemble as shown in FIGURE 14. For reference, this set of cleats is mounted for a stance angle of +12 degrees (the screws are in the +10 degree position and the washer is set to an additional +2 degrees).
IMPORTANT! The delrin (plastic) side of the cleat faces down and the metal side with the countersink slot faces up. The washer sits on top with the "P" facing up and the 2 longer screws tie everything together when tightened into the factory inserts on your board.
TIP: Use Loctite on these screws to prevent unwanted loosening! Set one side (ie one cleat) to the correct angle but leave the opposing cleat a little bit loose for now. You will tighten everything again later, and this will help ensure the opposing cleats are in the perfect position to accept the binding pins.
Adjust the locking pins on the bindings.
Phantom bindings rotate into position on the cleats and then lock into position. These pins need to be adjusted to ensure the most secure connection to the board.
To adjust, flip open the Quick Flicks lever assembly on each of the binding bail blocks. This will pull the pin into its "disengage" position. In this position, use the hex head bit included with the tool kit to loosen the jam nut on the threaded end of each pin as in FIGURE 15. The very end of the pin has a slot machined into it, which accepts the mini flathead bit included in the tool kit. Retract the pin by rotating in a clockwise direction. Send the pin further in by rotating in a counter clockwise direction. The goal, to start, is to freely rotate your bindings onto the cleats without the pointed ends of the pins getting in the way as shown in FIGURE 16.
IMPORTANT! Always open the lever and loosen the locking nut before adjusting the pin! This will prevent damage to the lever and binding of the pin/lever mechanism.
TIP: If you remove the jam nut entirely, you will also be able to unthread the pin from the lever mechanism. You'll really only ever need to do this if you need to perform maintenance on the pin. Sticky pin problems can often be remedied by taking the pins out and lightly polishing them with even just a little bit of olive oil. Just pay extra special attention to how the lever mechanism is assembled as you will need to put it back together in the exact same way!
With your bindings rotated into position on the cleats as in FIGURE 16, tighten the pins so when the levers are closed (in the "engaged" position), the pins are perfectly secure in the V-slots of the cleats. Start with the the cleat that you tightened at the correct angle. Adjust the pin so it closes tightly but smoothly, leave that side engaged, then adjust the other side. At that point you can go ahead and fully tighten/re-tighten all cleat screws. Once both cleats are firmly tightened in place, perform a final adjustment of the locking pins making sure that both levers open and close smoothly and the binding plate sits flat on the board top sheet.
FIGURE 17 shows the binding locked int0 position with both levers closed. We recommend that you "cycle" the bindings a few times - taking them on and off, and making sure everything works smoothly.
IMPORTANT! After the pins are adjusted, be sure to re-tighten the jam nuts against the lever axles. This will ensure that the pins don't further adjust with use.
TIP: A little bit of play is preferred at this stage rather than a super tight fit. A little bit of play indoors typically means a properly tight fit outdoors.
TIP: As you will likely perform this setup in a warm environment, it is recommended that you double check the tightness of the cleat screws the first few times out. This is because temperature differences can actually cause the system to change dimensions just enough to cause the cleats to shift.
Set up tour mode.
Mount the tech toes.
The Dynafit Speed Superlite toe pieces come riveted to our custom adapter plates. These single unit toe pieces mount directly to the factory touring bracket inserts in your board, and are easy to switch from board to board if you have multiple splits in your quiver.
To mount, insert the forward-most, single screw and tighten down just enough so that the adapter will slide on (you want the screw tight enough that it requires some force to slide it on). The countersunk slot on the adapter, as seen in FIGURE 18, is what the screw will slide into. Put the toe in the open position and slide on. Finally, line up the other two countersunk holes with the corresponding inserts and secure with the other 2 screws as in FIGURE 19.
TIP: Use Loctite to prevent unwanted loosening!
Mount the risers.
Phantom Rocket Risers mount directly to the factory heel riser inserts in your board. We recommend mounting the toes first and then, with your boot toes locked in, lower the heel to determine correct riser positioning. When in the upright position, you want the climbing wires to land somewhere in the middle of the heel as in FIGURE 20.
TIP: As always, use Loctite to prevent unwanted loosening! Some boots have a tread pattern where, if the risers are positioned either a little too far forward or a little too far back, the climbing wires may actually get stuck in the tread "voids." Try to make sure both wires land on a solid part of the sole.
Soft heel lockdown.
The rails on our Rocket Risers are slotted to allow for a "soft lockdown" using a 20-inch ski strap as illustrated in FIGURE 21. This feature is really intended for sidehilling only, not for downhill skiing as it is not rated to release and may lead to knee or other injuries.